Uros Islands & Taquile: our experience on Lake Titicaca

Lake Titicaca had been on our list for a while. Not only because it is the highest navigable lake in the world, but mainly because of the stories: floating islands of reeds, centuries-old traditions, and a way of life that is completely intertwined with the water. From Puno, we spent two days getting to know it: from a chance encounter with a skipper in the harbor to sleeping on a reed island in the middle of the lake. It was an experience we won't soon forget.

Plan your visit to the islands on Lake Titicaca

Our first day in Puno was mainly a day to recover from all the traveling and hiking we had done before. We strolled towards the port of Lake Titicaca. There we got into conversation with Hector, a friendly man who has been working as a skipper on the lake for 35 years. He is one of the skippers who sells tours to the islands on Lake Titicaca on the quay. He told us that he would be happy to take us to the Uros Islands the next day in his small motorboat, to places where the large ferries cannot go. He also mentioned in passing that his cousin has a lodge on one of the reed islands. Curious about the experience, we booked an overnight stay at Titicaca Beluxia. Sometimes the most beautiful adventures just come your way.

Day 1: Visit to the Uros Islands

Our visit to Lake Titicaca began early in the morning. Hector picked us up at our hotel and together we went to the harbor, where his small motorboat was moored. There we also met his father, who would be steering the boat today while Hector told us all about the area. We immediately noticed the advantage of such a small boat: where large ferries had to detour in the shallow water off the coast, we were able to go straight through. It was a peaceful start to a special day.

First stop: “Devils Island” (or is it Isla Foroba?)

Our first stop was on a rocky island known locally as “Devils Island.” The name comes from folk tales in which passers-by used to die mysteriously. To symbolically cleanse the island, a shaman has been making sacrifices for several years. And a cleansed island deserves a new, positive name: Isla Foroba. No one knows exactly what that name means. It probably comes from Aymara, the original language in this area.

Hector said that he used to work here in a museum about birds and plants. That museum has been abandoned, but its remains are still on the island. It feels a bit spooky because of that. As if time has stood still here.

The Uros Islands: a culture that literally floats

From Isla Foroba, we continue our journey on Lake Titicaca. For the Andean peoples, this lake is much more than just water; according to legend, Manco Cápac and Mama Ocllo, the children of the sun god, rose from the water here to found the Inca Empire.

On the lake lie the Uros Islands: a place you won't find anywhere else in the world. The Uros people once lived on the mainland, but fled to the water to avoid conflicts with other peoples. There they came up with something ingenious: artificial, floating islands made of totora reeds. By weaving layers of reeds crosswise, they created a platform strong enough for houses, watchtowers, and boats (which are also made of reeds).

The islands are alive: the bottom slowly rots away, while new layers of reeds are laid on top. The island dies and grows at the same time. The inhabitants are completely intertwined with this cycle. They fish, harvest reeds, hunt water birds, and share their culture with visitors.

Spending the night on the water at Titicaca Beluxia

After visiting one of the communities, we stopped at another reed island for lunch: fresh trout from the lake. We were then dropped off at Titicaca Beluxia, our lodge on one of the reed islands. This is where Luis lives with his mother Ana. They sleep in a modest hut themselves and welcome guests in a luxury lodge next to their home.

Outside there is a kind of “jacuzzi” (actually a tub that you can fill with hot water), and we spent the afternoon in complete tranquility. Ana brought us dinner in the evening and then we dove under seven (!) thick blankets. Probably a response to all the reviews from tourists who complained that the nights were cold. In any case, we weren't cold.

Day 2: to Taquile: fascinating traditions, but (for us) too touristy

In 1.5 hours, you can sail from the Uros island to Taquile: an island with terraced agricultural fields that date back to pre-Inca times. Potatoes, quinoa, and Andean herbs are still grown here.

But what Taquile is really known for is its textile tradition. Clothing here tells you who you are: region, marital status, social position. Everything is symbolic. Men knit and women weave, and this is not a hobby but an important part of growing up and being part of the community. After marriage, the residents do not wear rings. Instead, the woman weaves a belt for her husband from her own hair. A tradition that literally makes the bond between two people visible.

Still, we have to be honest: our visit to Taquile felt very touristy. The way groups are guided around and activities are presented reminded us less of an authentic encounter and more of a fixed program for visitors. We were also less impressed by the natural surroundings, perhaps because we have seen so many overwhelming landscapes in recent weeks that our standards are now very high.

Finally: our conclusion

If you travel to Puno, we would definitely recommend one thing: spend the night on one of the Uros Islands with a local family. There you will experience a unique culture, connected to the water, with traditions that are still alive today. And all this in a way that feels genuine and personal.

Taquile was less special to us, but the Uros Islands remain one of the most unique places in Peru.