Huanchaco: Peru's premier surfing destination with a centuries-old tradition

Huanchaco is one of those places where everything slows down. A fishing village in Peru on the Pacific coast where old traditions, surf culture, and relaxed beach life come together. We chose this coastal town after our first stop in Lima. We stayed here for four days, and we look back on it with fond memories.

How do you get to Huanchaco from Lima?

The journey from Lima to Huanchaco is long, but easy to arrange. There are two ways to get to Huanchaco: by plane or by (night) bus. We chose the latter option and traveled with Cruz del Sur. This is a reliable company and if you choose the “suite” option, the bus has comfortable seats that can be reclined completely. You will receive a small package with water and snacks. However, you will need to bring your own blanket and pillow. The route runs along the coast, but don't expect a smooth ride: the road surface is bumpy and the journey takes about 10 hours.

Once you arrive in Trujillo, it's only a 20-minute taxi ride to Huanchaco. You drive from the busy city into the quiet coastal town.

What to do in Huanchaco?

• Surfing in Huanchaco – the birthplace of surfing: Huanchaco is a surfing paradise. Although you may need to ease into your first session. The waves are consistent, but the seabed is rocky. Water shoes are therefore a must.

  
  

  Along the boulevard, you will find several surf schools where you can rent boards and wetsuits. Beginners can catch their first waves here, while experienced surfers appreciate the long rides that make Huanchaco famous.

Fun fact: what makes Huanchaco extra special is that it is the birthplace of surfing. For thousands of years, fishermen have been sailing here in Caballitos de Totora: narrow reed boats that they use to go out to sea to catch fish. They paddle back to shore standing on the waves, just like surfers do today.

This tradition dates back to the Moche and Chimú cultures and is still continued by local fishermen. You can even go out on one yourself (with guidance). We spoke to a fisherman on the beach and were allowed to steer the caballitos ourselves (for a fee). It's less difficult than it looks; the boats are quite stable and don't capsize easily. However, it is a bit hard on your arms to paddle against the waves. A unique experience that you can only find in Huanchaco.

• Day trip to Chicama – the longest wave in the world: Chicama, a legendary surf spot with “the longest left-hand wave in the world,” is an hour and a half drive away. An absolute must for surfers. You can easily arrange a day trip through a local surf school. Driver, boards, and wetsuits included.

  
  

  The drive there takes you through countryside full of sugar cane fields and small villages. Once in Chicama, it's time for action: walk a kilometer with your board to the start of the wave, brave the strong wind, and then... enjoy. The waves roll endlessly, and you can even take a speedboat back for the next run. Our tip is to see if you can go with a group. That way, the price of the speedboat is cheaper per person. We were lucky that the current and waves weren't super strong, so we could always paddle back ourselves and didn't need a boat.

• Visiting Chan Chan – the mud-brick capital of the Chimú Empire: The archaeological site of Chan Chan is perhaps the most famous attraction in the region. However, to be honest, we were more impressed by Huaca de la Luna (see below). Whereas Chan Chan is mainly large and expansive, Huaca de la Luna feels much more lively and personal. If you have to choose, we would definitely not skip Huaca de la Luna and possibly skip Chan Chan.

  
  

  The mud city of Chan Chan was the capital of the Chimú Empire (around 900 AD) and is considered the largest clay city in the world.

  
  

  The Chimú were master builders and fishermen, and their city was full of symbolism: walls with patterns of fish, birds, and waves. The complex is huge: a labyrinth of palaces, squares, and ceremonial spaces in the middle of the desert.

  
  

  One ticket allows you to visit four locations: the museum, the main complex, and two pyramids. We chose to walk between the sites, which gave us a special view of the arid landscape full of hidden ruins. Chan Chan is easy to reach by taking the local bus from Huanchaco to Trujillo. These buses run constantly and can be stopped by simply waving. The trip to Chan Chan costs 50 euro cents per person.

• Huaca de la Luna – colorful temple of the Moche: Even older than Chan Chan is La Huaca de la Luna (the Temple of the Moon), an archaeological site of the Moche culture (200–850 AD). The temple is located just outside Trujillo and is easily accessible by taxi.

  
  

  During a guided tour, you will learn about the rituals of the Moche, including human sacrifices to ward off natural disasters. Inside, you will see colorful murals and reliefs of mythical figures such as the decapitating god Ai Apaec. Each adobe brick of the temple bears the symbol of the family that made it: their way of paying taxes.

  
  

  Thanks to the (mandatory) guide, we got a clear picture of the rituals and daily life of the Moche culture.

Where to eat in Huanchaco – the best ceviche and more: Huanchaco is proud of its culinary heritage. The locals claim that ceviche originated here. And after one bite, you'll believe it right away. Along the boulevard, you'll find countless restaurants where fresh fish comes in daily from the sea.

Our tips:

• Chocolate café: For delicious breakfasts in a cozy garden. After arriving on the night bus, we opted for a granola bowl with fresh fruit.

  
  

• Nahla rooftop: A trendy restaurant with a view of the ocean. We came back here several times: for lunch and just for a good cappuccino.

  
  

• Restaurant Caribe: Here we had the most delicious ceviche in Huanchaco: ceviche with shrimp. We got a plate full, which the two of us could barely finish.

  
  

• El Refugio: Delicious Neapolitan-style pizza, made in a wood-fired oven. You can only get pizza to go here. We ate it on the beach as the sun set.

In conclusion

Huanchaco is the perfect place to slow down and relax. Between the surfing, the ceviche, and the ancient culture, this village feels like a time capsule where tradition and relaxation go hand in hand. Whether you come for the waves or the history, Huanchaco will leave a lasting impression.