What to do in Lima (Peru): complete travel guide for a surprising capital city

Lima, Peru's bustling capital, is often the first stop for travelers exploring South America. Many people only stay here for a short time, but we discovered that this coastal city has much more to offer than you might initially think. From street art and ceviche to ancient pyramids and colonial squares, Lima is a surprising mix of old and new. In this blog, we share our tips on where to stay, where to eat, and what to do in Lima.

Waar verblijven in Lima?

Lima bestaat uit verschillende wijken, waarvan Miraflores en Barranco het populairst zijn onder reizigers. Beide zijn veilige buurten met volop gezellige restaurants, cafés en bars. Wel liggen de prijzen hier wat hoger dan in het oude centrum van Lima.

Wij verbleven in hostel NAIA in Miraflores: een hip en sfeervol hostel midden in een levendige wijk. Je kunt er kiezen tussen een gedeelde slaapzaal of een privé kamer. Omdat onze reis van 3,5 maand net begon, gingen wij voor wat extra comfort: een eigen kamer. Het ontbijt, geserveerd in een knusse eetzaal, zat inbegrepen bij de overnachting.

Wat ons betreft: een dikke aanrader!

Where to stay in Lima?

Lima consists of several districts, of which Miraflores and Barranco are the most popular among travelers. Both are safe neighborhoods with plenty of cozy restaurants, cafes, and bars. However, prices here are slightly higher than in the old center of Lima.

We stayed at the NAIA hostel in Miraflores: a trendy and atmospheric hostel in the middle of a lively neighborhood. You can choose between a shared dormitory or a private room. Because our 3.5-month trip had just begun, we opted for some extra comfort: a private room. Breakfast, served in a cozy dining room, was included in the price of the room.

As far as we're concerned: highly recommended!

Where to eat in Lima?

Lima is not called the ‘food capital’ of South America for nothing. The city is bursting with great places to eat: from street stalls to culinary delights. We mainly ate in Miraflores, but below you will also find a recommendation in the old town.

• Churros at Manolo (Miraflores) or San Francisco (old town): Our first snack after arriving: churros with dulce de leche. Not typically Peruvian (more Spanish), but incredibly tasty. Later, we also tried churros at San Francisco in the old town. Even fresher and more reasonably priced. So it just depends on where you feel like something sweet.

• Ceviche at Ceviche House (Miraflores): When in Lima, you simply must try ceviche: fresh fish marinated in lime juice. At Ceviche House, you can try different varieties. On the recommendation of a friendly man (who even spoke a little Dutch!), we opted for the ceviche with sole: fresh, full of flavor, and deliciously light.

• Causa Lomo Saltado at Kauza (Miraflores): Another classic dish from Peruvian cuisine: causa, a dish consisting of layers of mashed potatoes, avocado, and chicken or tuna salad. We chose the version with Lomo Saltado: marinated strips of steak. A surprising, well-filled combination.

• Caldo de Gallina at Siete Sopas (multiple locations): If you're in the mood for something warm, we recommend the Caldo de Gallina, or chicken soup made from mature chicken. Richly filled and full of flavor. At Siete Sopas, there is a different soup on the menu every day, but you can order this classic at any time. Please note: the restaurant is popular, so expect a queue around dinner time.

• Nikkei sushi at Yakimo Sushi (Miraflores): Nikkei cuisine combines Japanese techniques with Peruvian ingredients. And you can taste it. At Yakimo Sushi, we ate fresh, refined sushi of the highest quality.

• Tacu Tacu & Arroz Chaufa at Frangos (Old Town): In the old town, we ate at Frangos on the recommendation of a local: simple dishes, but full of flavor. The Tacu Tacu (a kind of fried “pancake” made from rice and beans) with Lomo Saltado was our favorite. We also tried Arroz Chaufa: Peruvian-Chinese fried rice with roasted chicken. The portions are generous, so come hungry!

• Try the local fruit and vegetables: Lima has several markets selling fresh fruit. Our favorites are cherimoya, granadilla, pitaya, and manzanita plátano. But the mangoes and avocados here are also delicious!

What to do in Lima?

Lima is a diverse city full of history, culture, and surprising sights. Below, we share our favorite activities and sights in Lima.

• Cuddling cats in the ‘cat park’ – Parque Kennedy (Miraflores): A fun and unexpected attraction in Lima is Parque John F. Kennedy, better known as the cat park. In the 1980s and 1990s, this part of Miraflores struggled with a rat infestation. Local residents released cats in the park, and they have remained there ever since.

  
  

  Today, dozens of cats roam the park, lovingly cared for by volunteers. They provide food, sterilization, and even adoption services. Everywhere you look, you see baskets and boxes where the cats sleep. The animals are used to people and enjoy being petted (when they feel like it). It's a nice place to relax in the middle of the city.

• Visit the Huaca Pucllana pyramid: Huaca Pucllana is an ancient clay pyramid in Miraflores. This pyramid was built around 200 AD by the Lima culture and served as a sacred place (Huaca means ‘sacred place’ in Quechua).

  
  

  What makes the site extra special is its location: in the middle of Lima's modern buildings. The pyramid is made of vertical adobe bricks using the so-called bookshelf technique, which makes the structure more resistant to earthquakes.

  
  

  After the Lima culture, Huaca Pucllana was used by the Wari culture, among other things as a burial place for the elite. This means that it is not a static monument, but a place with layers of history. Fun fact: archaeologists are still making discoveries here, and it is expected to take another 40 years before the entire site has been excavated.

  
  

  A guided tour is mandatory, but we found it worthwhile.

• Chocolate making at the Choco Museum (Miraflores): Another fun activity in Lima is a chocolate-making workshop at the Choco Museum in Miraflores. The museum is located in the middle of the Inca Market, surrounded by colorful stalls selling rugs and paintings.

  
  

  During the workshop, you will learn everything about the cacao plant, from bean to bar. Did you know that there are three main types of cacao? Criollo, Forastero, and Trinitario. Peru produces two of them: Criollo and Trinitario.

  
  

  You will also learn how cacao spread from the Amazon region across the world and how the beans are harvested, fermented, and roasted. Then you will get to work yourself: selecting beans, roasting them, grinding them into paste, and tasting them in the form of Xocalatl: a bitter drink that the Mayans used to drink.

  
  

  Finally, you will make your own bars with melted chocolate from the factory, which you can take home with you afterwards. A tasty and educational activity in Lima. Especially if you have a sweet tooth!

• Bike tour through Lima: One of the best ways to explore Lima is by bike tour. We left from our hostel with our guide Carlos and a small international group. The route, about 20 kilometers long, took us through three neighborhoods: Miraflores, Barranco, and Chorrillos. Each had its own character. Barranco stole our hearts with its colorful houses, flowers, and street art; this was exactly the lively South America we had imagined. The tour ended on the outskirts of the city, among the rocks, where we enjoyed a beautiful sunset over the Pacific Ocean. With exceptionally sunny weather (a rarity in Lima!), this was one of our favorite experiences in the city.

• The old center of Lima: We spent our last day in Lima in the old center of Lima. According to locals, this is the real heart of the city. From the moment we stepped out, we were impressed by the grandeur and colonial charm: stately buildings, squares, and churches reminiscent of European capitals. The center of it all is the Plaza Mayor (Plaza de Armas), where Lima was founded in 1535 by the Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro. Every corner of this square represents a power from the colonial era: the imposing Cathedral of Lima with the tomb of Pizarro himself, the Government Palace where we arrived just in time for the changing of the guard, the City Hall, and the Archbishop's Palace with its beautiful wooden balconies.

  
  

Then we unexpectedly stumbled upon a colorful parade featuring the Caporales dance: a cheerful spectacle with glittering costumes, music, and rhythm.

In the old town, we visited the impressive Convento de San Francisco and the catacombs of Lima. The tour took us past a monastery courtyard with blue azulejo tiles from Seville, a centuries-old library with 25,000 books, and even a mural of the Last Supper, with a local twist: guinea pig on the table. Downstairs, in the catacombs, lie the remains of tens of thousands of people. An impressive and almost mystical finale to our time in Lima. Photography is prohibited in these places.

In conclusion

Lima was a great place for us to start our trip. After Lima, we took the night bus to the coastal town of Huanchaco. More about that in the next blog.