Things to do in Bergamo and surroundings: hikes, highlights and local delicacies

Want to combine a city break with nature, culture and culinary surprises? Then Bergamo is the perfect destination. This northern Italian city is often overshadowed by nearby Milan, but it has so much to offer in its own right. We stayed in this surprising city for a few days and used it as a base for two day trips to the mountains. And as always, wherever we go, stories (and food) follow. We are happy to share these adventures with you.

Sights in Bergamo: medieval charm and stracciatella ice cream

Bergamo. A city with two faces, literally. Città Alta (the Upper Town) and Città Bassa (the Lower Town). We are staying in the modern lower town, where we have booked a lovely little flat: Olivia Suite. After a quick check-in and a refreshing shower, we are ready to explore Bergamo.

We were hungry (which is not unusual for us). With that in mind, we walked towards the historic centre, about twenty minutes away. However, it turned out that half of Bergamo (and its tourists) had exactly the same idea. The streets were packed with people, and there was an even longer queue in front of every restaurant. After some sighing and groaning, we joined the queue at Il Fornaio bakery, where you had to take a number in the old-fashioned way. Admittedly, it was certainly touristy. But the freshly baked pizza slices did not disappoint. Sometimes you just have to put your expectations aside (and fill your plate).

With renewed energy, we decided to really explore the city. Città Alta is the old, historic heart of Bergamo and, as the name suggests, is located quite a bit higher up. You can take a cable car (the Funicolare) to get there, but we opted to climb. It turned out to be quite a climb, but along the way we got a taste of the city's charm. Once at the top, we decided to walk on to Castello di San Vigilio, the highest point in the city. The view there is breathtaking: on one side the city, on the other the rolling hills and mountains.

After so many steps, metres and impressions, we felt we deserved a reward. And what a reward: stracciatella ice cream. Did you know that this flavour was invented here? In 1961, the owner of La Marianna came up with this combination of fiordilatte ice cream with melted dark chocolate. The chocolate solidified immediately and broke into small pieces: stracciatella was born. We hesitated for a moment in the long queue (another tourist trap?), but believe us: this ice cream is really worth it. Even if you're not normally an ice cream person.

To finish off, we visited the impressive Capella Colleoni and the Duomo of Bergamo, two beautiful buildings located right next to each other. The chapel is decorated with colourful frescoes, marble and a special coat of arms with three testicles (yes, really). The Colleoni family left no doubt as to who was in charge here. The Duomo itself was being used for mass at the time. We stayed for a while to listen to the singing. A serene moment in a busy day.

Hiking near Bergamo: the Giro dei 5 Laghi in Valgoglio

After our first day in the city, we decided to head higher up (literally). Just under an hour's drive from Bergamo is the starting point for one of the most beautiful walks in the region: the Giro dei 5 Laghi di Valgoglio. In other words: an 18-kilometre hike along five mountain lakes, with an elevation gain and loss of almost 1,000 metres. A serious day's work, in other words.

We parked our car in the village of Valgoglio, where you can park for five euros a day. Next to the car park is a restaurant, where we quickly refilled our water bottles. The first few metres were immediately challenging. The route winds its way up a forest path, right next to a metal pipeline that transports water from the lakes downhill. Not very charming, but handy: it's almost impossible to get lost as long as you follow the pipe. As soon as we reached the tree line, the landscape changed completely. Golden autumn colours, soft sunshine and the silhouettes of mountains in the distance. Magical.

The actual route begins at the top of the mountain: a loop around five unique lakes. You can start in either direction, so we began with a short break (read: lunch!). Our mini focaccias tasted extra good with this view. And: it was getting warm. Time to transform our zip-off trousers into shorts. Hiking fashion at its best.

The first lake we arrived at was Lago Nero: dark, mysterious and beautifully situated among the rocks. This was followed by Lago d'Aviasco (large and impressive), Lago Campelli and Lago Cernello (both crystal clear), and Lago Sucotto, which felt almost fairy-tale-like due to its green surroundings. Every bend brought a new view, and every climb felt like a mini victory.

But easy? No. This was a really tough hike. Lots of rocks, lots of climbing, and therefore lots of muscle pain. Fortunately, we had our walking sticks and sturdy shoes with us – no luxury on this terrain.

Autumn is beautiful, but it has one major drawback: it gets dark early. Around four o'clock, the sun was already starting to set, and we felt the pressure of time. We tried to keep up the pace, but we ended up walking through the dark forest with our phone lights in hand. Adventurous, shall we say. Next time: bring headlamps and descend a little earlier. But we returned to the car safely and satisfied.

Panoramic views of Lake Como: hiking in Parco Valentino

About an hour and a half's drive from Bergamo lies Parco Valentino, a national park near the Piani dei Resinelli. The route there is an adventure in itself: hairpin bend after hairpin bend, you wind your way up until you finally reach the top. And that's great, because then you don't have to climb so much yourself. Win-win!

We opted for the Belvedere route, a short walk with a spectacular reward: a panoramic view of Lake Como. What makes this place extra special? The metal footbridge that literally hangs over the abyss. Not suitable for those with a fear of heights, but perfect for those looking for a wow moment. The view is vast, deep and impressive. The lake glistens in the sun, the mountains rise in the distance and you feel very small for a moment.

Since we still had some energy left (and the weather was so lovely, clear blue skies and warm), we decided to take an extra loop to the top of Monte Coltignone, about 1,500 metres high. What a view! And best of all, we hardly had to share it with anyone. No crowds, no queues, no noise. Just us, the mountains and a few curious birds.

In conclusion

Bergamo proved to be an ideal mix of city and nature. Sweating on the mountain trails during the day, sitting down in the evening to enjoy local specialities such as Casoncelli alla Bergamasca or a sweet Polenta e Osei. The city itself is charming and the mountains are energising. Three days were actually too short, but enough to fall in love with this lesser-known gem of Italy. One thing is certain: we will be back. Perhaps for another slice of stracciatella. Perhaps for the birds on our cake. Or simply for everything at once.