Madeira: The best hiking trails and local dining tips

In 2021, we flew to beautiful Madeira for our honeymoon. “Madeira? Isn't that a destination for older people who go on cruises?” people asked us at the time. But now, thanks in part to TikTok, more and more travelers are discovering that Madeira has much more to offer than that. The island is full of adventurous hiking trails, delicious local cuisine, and a welcoming population. Whether you're a nature lover, a foodie, or just looking for relaxation, be inspired by our experiences on this special island.

What do you need to know before you go?

Madeira is an island in the Atlantic Ocean. Although the island belongs to Portugal, it is closer to North Africa. As a result, Madeira has a subtropical climate with mild temperatures throughout the year.

You can reach Madeira by flying to the capital, Funchal. Once on the island, a rental car is your best friend. The starting points for most hikes are easily accessible by car. The same applies to the sights. We rented our car from Funchal Car Hire. We were very pleased with them. Good service and a friendly welcome from the airport.

What more can we say? Portuguese is spoken on Madeira, but most residents also speak (basic) English. But of course, it's fun to learn a few Portuguese words. You pay with the euro, which is very convenient.

Where to stay in Madeira?

We booked our accommodation at the then brand new NEXT hotel in Funchal. Again, we had a perfect experience. Because it was our honeymoon, we booked a luxury room with an ocean view. But even the ‘standard’ rooms looked beautiful. The breakfast every morning was good and varied. Parking was available at the hotel for a fee.

Madeira is diverse, but not large. For us, Funchal was a great base for day trips. The hotel itself has a swimming pool and private access to a small section of the ocean. The center was within walking distance, so we could enjoy dinner there in the evening.

What to eat and drink in Madeira?

Well, the food... We would fly back just for that alone. Below is a summary of traditional food and drink.

• Poncha and Nikita: two iconic drinks you absolutely cannot miss. Poncha is a drink that originated with fishermen. It consists of three simple ingredients: Branco (brandy), honey, and orange juice. It is often mixed by hand with a special wooden stirring stick called a “caralhinho.” Nikita is a slightly lighter drink and is a mix of pineapple, white wine, and vanilla ice cream.

  
  

• Espada fish and limpets: Of course, seafood is a must. A traditional dish is Espada fish served with banana and passion fruit. Grilled limpets are also a local specialty.

  
  

• Bolo de Caco: One of Madeira's most beloved traditional dishes. This soft, round flatbread is usually served warm with a layer of garlic butter. Sometimes it is also served with a piece of grilled steak (prego).

  
  

• Exotisch fruit: Het fruit op Madeira proeft zoveel puurder dan wij in Nederland gewend zijn. Nu pas weten we hoe bananen écht horen te smaken. Maar naast het bekende fruit zijn er ook een aantal bijzondere vruchten te koop. Je kunt ze kopen en proeven op de Farmers Market, maar ons advies is om het gewoon op straat te kopen. Goedkoper, en net zo lekker.

• Exotic fruit: Fruit in Madeira tastes so much purer than what we are used to in the Netherlands. Only now do we know how bananas are really supposed to taste. But in addition to the familiar fruit, there are also a number of unusual fruits for sale. You can buy and taste them at the Farmers Market, but our advice is to just buy them on the street. Cheaper, and just as tasty.

• Chocolates at Uau Cacau: We really don't want to keep these from you. At this shop in Funchal, you can buy handmade chocolates filled with fresh fruit.

Finally, we highly recommend the Informal restaurant in Funchal. Here they serve beautifully presented dishes with delicious flavors.

What are the most beautiful hiking trails in Madeira?

Madeira is known for its many spectacular hiking trails. Too many to try them all in a week. These were our favorites:

Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo

The famous Pico to Pico hike. Early in the morning, we parked our car at the top of the mountain at Pico do Arieiro. Here we experienced a beautiful sunrise above the clouds. It means getting up early, but the view is breathtaking...

After sunrise, many people returned to their cars, but we started our hike. This route connects the third highest peak on the island, Pico do Arieiro (1,818 meters), with the highest, Pico Ruivo (1,862 meters). The hike is about 14 kilometers long there and back, but the hilly terrain with ascents and descents can make it feel quite strenuous. Expect to walk for about 6 to 7 hours in total. The route is well marked but requires a good level of fitness due to the steep sections and steps.

A special feature of this hike is that you walk through several tunnels carved through the mountains. So don't forget to bring a flashlight or headlamp, as some tunnels are quite dark.

During this hike, we had two different types of views. The way there was clear and sunny, and on the way back, we literally walked in the clouds.

Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço

This walk takes you through breathtaking scenery full of rugged cliffs and spectacular views of the eastern tip of the island, Ponta de São Lourenço. In contrast to the lush green mountains in the interior of Madeira, this route offers a completely different landscape: dry, rocky, and almost lunar, with constant views of the ocean.

The total distance of the walk is approximately 7 kilometers there and back. The entire walk takes around 2.5 to 3 hours. The Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço has some elevation changes, but they are relatively mild compared to other hikes on Madeira. You will mainly walk on undulating paths along the cliffs.

Caldeirāo Verde & Caldeirāo do Inferno

These routes take you past old levadas (irrigation channels), through tunnels, and past beautiful waterfalls. The paths wind through dense forests and give you the feeling that you are exploring a mysterious fairytale landscape.

From the parking lot, we start the Caldeirāo Verde route. The total distance is approximately 13 kilometers there and back. We decided to walk even further to Caldeirão do Inferno. This adds 4 kilometers to the trip, bringing the total distance to approximately 17 kilometers. For the full route to Caldeirão do Inferno, you should allow for a total walking time of 6 to 7 hours there and back to the parking lot.

One of the highlights of this hike is the impressive waterfall at the end of the route at Caldeirão Verde. Along the way, you will pass through several tunnels carved into the rocks. Some are quite long and dark, so it is important to bring a flashlight or headlamp.

Levada Ponta do Pargo

The Levada Ponta do Pargo is one of the quieter and more relaxed walking routes on Madeira. This walk along one of Madeira's famous levadas (old irrigation channels) takes you through peaceful landscapes, with sweeping views of the western coastline and the ocean. We walked through a wonderfully fragrant forest thanks to all the eucalyptus trees.

The Levada Ponta do Pargo is a relatively flat walk, as the path mostly follows the levada. There are some slight differences in altitude, but compared to the more challenging mountain walks on Madeira, this route is easily accessible and suitable for all levels of walkers. The walk is approximately 11 kilometers there and back (5.5 km one way). You can expect to walk for about 3 to 4 hours for the round trip.

What are the sights on Madeira?

In addition to enjoying nature and the food, there are also some places that are a bit more touristy. With good reason, of course, because they are also beautiful. The places we visited are:

• Monte Palace Tropical Garden: An impressive botanical garden full of exotic plants and art.

• Porto Moniz Natural Swimming Pools: Naturally formed pools where you can swim among volcanic rocks.

• Golf surfen bij Seixal beach: Voor ons een hele leuke activiteit. Dit zwarte zandstrand heeft vaak perfecte golven om op te surfen.

• Surfing at Seixal beach: A really fun activity for us. This black sand beach often has perfect waves for surfing.

In conclusion

Madeira stole our hearts with its unique blend of breathtaking nature, delicious food, and welcoming culture. We hope that our stories and tips inspire you to discover the island for yourself. And we would love to hear afterwards how Madeira surprised you.