Atacama Desert Chile: sights and day trips from San Pedro

The most popular tourist destination in northern Chile is the Atacama Desert. And we understand why. During our trip, we visited the most extraordinary and alienating landscapes in this area. We stayed for a week in San Pedro de Atacama, a small desert village in one of the driest places in the world. From here, we took several day trips in our rental car, a Suzuki Jimny. In this blog, we share our itinerary, including costs and practical tips.

How do you get to San Pedro de Atacama?

The largest city near San Pedro de Atacama is Calama. Here you will find both an airport and a bus terminal. So there is a good chance that your journey to San Pedro will take you via Calama. We traveled from the coastal town of Arica by direct night bus. This journey took about 12 hours and also went via Calama.

Are you traveling from Arica? Then buy your bus ticket immediately upon arrival in Arica. The national terminal is right next to the international terminal (where you arrive). Our bus with the Frontera del Norte company departed the next day at 8:30 p.m. This was the only company with a direct bus; all other buses stop in Calama. There were almost no seats left, so we were glad we had arranged it right away.

Where to stay in San Pedro de Atacama?

We chose to stay just outside the center of San Pedro. There were two reasons for this: it was easy to park the car here and we were far enough from the center to enjoy the starry sky at night. Due to the extremely clear air, this region is known as one of the best places in the world for stargazing.

We stayed at Vientos San Pedro, a nice accommodation with private rooms, a shared kitchen, and several places to relax. For us, this was an ideal base for day trips by car.

What to do in San Pedro de Atacama?

Daily tours to the main attractions depart from San Pedro throughout the year. Because we wanted to be flexible and independent, we rented a car. The minimum age for renting a car is 25 at most rental companies. Keep in mind that many roads around San Pedro are unpaved, so a four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended. We drove a Suzuki Jimny and found it to be the perfect car for the area. We paid around CLP 95,000 (around €95) per day for this.

Tip: Are you too young to rent a car? In San Pedro, you can rent a bike in many places. Attractions such as Valle de la Luna are also easily accessible by bike.

Of the eight days we stayed in San Pedro, we spent six days traveling by car. Below, we share our daily schedule, including tips and costs.

Day 1: Visit the archaeological site of Pukará de Quitor

Just outside San Pedro de Atacama lies Pukará de Quitor, located on a rocky hill on the edge of the San Pedro River. This former fortress was built in the 12th century by the Atacameño people (Likan Antai) and served as a defensive stronghold against hostile tribes and later against the Spanish conquistadors. Its strategic location offered a good view of the valley and made it possible to spot attacks in time. Today, the remains of stone walls, terraces, and dwellings are still visible. From the top, you have a panoramic view of the valley and the surrounding desert. A fun half-day outing.

Please note: the Google Maps location is not entirely accurate. When you are close to the location, follow the route indicated by the signs.

Day 2: Visit Laguna Cejar, Ojos del Salar, and Laguna Tebenquinche

Laguna Cejar

Laguna Cejar is a salt lake, known for its high salt content that makes you float, similar to the Dead Sea. To visit, book a time slot in advance via the website and pay the entrance fee (CLP 15,000, approximately €15 per person). You can then spend about an hour floating in the water and enjoying the unique landscape. There are rules in place to protect the fragile environment: for example, it is forbidden to apply sunscreen, creams, or other products before entering the lake. For your own health, it is also recommended not to submerge your head, as the salty water can be very irritating. After floating in the lake for a while, you can rinse off at the facilities provided so that the salt does not remain on your skin.

Ojos del Salar and Laguna Tebenquinche

The next stop is a 15-minute drive away: Ojos del Salar and Laguna Tebenquinche. Here, too, there is a new entrance where you pay for admission at the gate (CLP 6,000, approximately €6 per person). Immediately after the entrance, you can visit Ojos del Salar. We didn't find this particularly special. It consists of two holes in the ground filled with salt water. You walk around them, and then you've seen it all.

Laguna Tebenquinche, on the other hand, was very surprising. We didn't have this on our ‘list’, but it made the visit more than worthwhile. This shallow salt lake is located in the middle of the Salar de Atacama and is best known for its mirror-like surface, which, in calm weather, beautifully reflects the surrounding volcanoes and the sky. We were lucky enough to experience this during our visit.

Day 3: Visit Tatio geysers, Vicuña viewpoint, Flamingo Lagoon, Machuca, and Libre Pura (hot springs)

Tatio Geysers

The Tatio geysers are located about a 1.5-hour drive from San Pedro. These geysers are one of Chile's most spectacular natural phenomena and are located high in the Andes Mountains, at an altitude of over 4,300 meters in the Atacama Desert. It is the largest geyser field in the southern hemisphere and consists of dozens of geysers, fumaroles, and steaming hot springs. Especially in the early morning, when temperatures are well below freezing, the clouds of steam stand out sharply against the barren volcanic landscape and the rising sun. That is why many tours leave early in the morning (around 4 a.m.). We didn't feel like getting up early (and joining large groups of tourists). We arrived at the geysers at 10 a.m. On the way, we saw all the tour buses driving back. When we arrived, there was almost no one left. The geysers were still active. Maybe it's less spectacular than in the morning, but for us it was a unique experience because we were walking around there alone.

The geysers are fed by underground heat from nearby volcanoes, which heats groundwater and pushes it to the surface under pressure. Herds of vicuñas roam the grounds, and apparently there are also a lot of foxes. In any case, you had to lock your car properly, otherwise they would steal your food. It was a unique experience, and definitely worth the entrance fee (CLP 15,000, about €15 per person).

Vicuña viewpoint and Flamingo Laguna

On the way back from the geysers to San Pedro, we had planned a few stops. The first stop was at the ‘Vicuña viewpoint’. We had seen the location on Google Maps and decided to drive there on the off chance. And sure enough, there they were. A whole herd was grazing by the river. We couldn't get very close because they were very shy. But it was certainly nice to see them in their natural habitat.

We got in the car and drove to the next spot to spot animals: a lake full of flamingos. They came in different colors: from bright pink to white. These creatures were also a bit shy. As soon as we walked towards the lake, they flew away. But here too, it was special to see them in the wild. And what beautiful colors.

Machuca

On the way, we stopped in Machuca, a tiny, traditional village located at an altitude of 4,000 meters. The village consists of a handful of mud houses and a small church. Machuca is inhabited by an Aymara community, which has been living off livestock farming for generations. There is one bakery, where they make empanadas with llama meat and goat cheese. Since we didn't encounter any restaurants or shops further along the way, we ate our lunch here. After this snack, we walked to the beautiful white church in the village. A celebration was taking place here: the celebration of the Virgen de Guadalupe. This is typical of religious celebrations on the Chilean Altiplano, where the Catholic faith is closely intertwined with Aymara traditions.

The celebration began with a mass at the church, then moved outside, where music, dancing, and communal eating and drinking took center stage. The music was played by wind instruments and drums, with rhythms that have been used in rituals in the Andes for centuries. Dancing is not only for pleasure, but also as a form of tribute: to the saint, to the community, and to the land.

Then people began pouring alcohol on or near the altar (pisco, wine, or beer). This is an important symbolic moment. This ritual, known as challa, is an offering to Pachamama (Mother Earth) and to the ancestors. First, the earth is “served,” then the people. During the celebration, there was a lot of sharing; we were given a beer and invited to drink with them. Everyone (residents, family from other villages, and us as chance travelers) is part of the celebration.

What makes such a celebration special is that it is not grand or touristy, but intimate and community-oriented. It is less about a strict program and more about being together, showing gratitude, and maintaining traditions. A special experience!

Purilibre (free thermal baths)

We ended this long day at the thermal baths. There is a well-known place for this in the area: Puritama. Admission to these baths is €35 per person, and online we read some less than enthusiastic reviews about the organization that manages them. We also read that you can drive your car to another spot further up the river: Purilibre. A 30-40 minute climb from the parking lot takes you to the river, where you can choose a hot spring for free. Because we are up for an adventure, we started the walk.

From the parking lot, you first walk down towards the river. Hidden among the reeds is a small bridge that takes you across the river. From there, you have a choice: the most obvious option is to go left. After a short walk, you will find several places in the river where you can enter the water. Keep in mind that it is a bit busier with people here. We chose to turn right after the bridge. This route is a lot more adventurous, but it was more rewarding for us.

After following the path uphill for about fifteen minutes, you arrive at a waterfall. We climbed down the rocks and had the pool at the waterfall all to ourselves. The water was around 28 degrees, so not very warm, but just right for relaxing for a while. And what a beautiful setting, surrounded by cacti and waterfalls. A relaxing end to a busy day.

Day 4: Visit to Valle de la Luna

On this day, we stayed a little closer to home. Valle de la Luna is only a 15-minute drive from San Pedro de Atacama. The valley owes its name to the moon for good reason: the dry, rocky landscape looks so alien that it feels almost unreal. For us, it was one of the most alienating and extraordinary landscapes we have seen so far. Truly beautiful.

You can buy a ticket at the park entrance (CLP 10,800, about €10 per person). You will then receive a brief explanation of how best to visit the park and in what order. You can drive your own car or ride your bike into the park and then go for hikes. The man at the reception recommended that we start with the walk at Mayor Dune, the largest dune in the park. This walk takes about 50 minutes and takes you past two viewpoints, from where you have an impressive view of the valley.

We then drove to the end of the park to see the Tres Marías – the Three Marys. These are three upright rock formations that were naturally formed by minerals and erosion. For us personally, it wasn't really worth getting out of the car for.

The third stop was a short walking route to an old salt mine. You can't enter the mine itself, but you can see remnants of its mining history, such as an old train, an excavator, and containers used to transport the salt. In a small cave, you can literally hear the stones ‘cracking’ due to the extreme dryness. Ultimately, we didn't find this stop very special either; there was little to see.

The last stop—which is actually marked as number two on the map—was recommended to be done last, as it is the most difficult hike. In about 1 hour and 20 minutes, you walk past three viewpoints. To get there, you first have to climb a steep hill, which is quite challenging due to the loose desert sand and the scorching sun. But the effort is rewarded: the viewpoints are really worth it. You look out over the Amphitheater, a huge rock formation with a strikingly flat top. It's very special to see and, in our opinion, an absolute highlight of the Valle de la Luna.

In the evening, we had planned one last visit to the Valle de la Luna. From the Mirador de Ckari viewpoint, you can watch the sunset over the valley. On recommendation, we arrived around 7:30 p.m. The last entry to this viewpoint is at 7:45 p.m. You also have to show your tickets here. Then you find a spot along the cliff. It was quite busy here, because all the visitors to the valley that day gather here. Together we enjoyed the beautiful colors over the valley and the sun slowly sinking. When the sun disappeared behind the mountain peaks, the people from the organization immediately came to send us all home: ‘Vamos Chicos!’, and off we went. We quickly took some photos and got in the car. It was a nice way to end the day, but it's important to remember to take your photos in time before you get sent away.

Tip: Haven't bought a ticket for Valle de la Luna, but still want to watch the sunset over the valley? There is also a free parking lot near the paid viewpoint. Make sure you arrive early, as the parking lot can fill up quickly.

Day 5: Valle del Arcoíris

On this day, we visited Valle del Arcoíris (Rainbow Valley). This valley is known for its colorful mountains. Due to the presence of various minerals, such as copper, salt, and clay, the rocks are colored red, green, white, and yellow. A short walking route allows you to walk around the rock formations.

When you drive all the way to the end of the road, you will arrive at a canyon that you can walk through.

Day 6: Valle del Muerte

On our last day, we took a walk to Valle del Muerte, just outside San Pedro de Atacama. It's about a ten-minute drive by car, but since we no longer had a rental car, we walked there. That meant about a 45-minute walk, much of it along the highway. Not the most interesting part, but luckily a car stopped along the way and gave us a ride to the park entrance.

Once there, we found out that pedestrians are only allowed in until 4:30 p.m. We hadn't read anything about this online, so it came as a surprise. The reason is that the entire walk takes about 3.5 hours and the park closes at 8 p.m. Once again, we were lucky: here too, we were able to get a ride with another car. As a result, we still managed to walk the route before closing time. So you can choose to enter the park by car, bicycle, or on foot. In all cases, please take into account the different entrance times.

Valle del Muerte literally means Valley of Death. There are various stories about the origin of that name. Many tourist descriptions say that the valley was so named because people or animals who tried to cross it did not survive due to the extreme drought, heat, and lack of water. Animal and human bones are even said to have been found there. Another explanation is the confusion with the name Valle de Marte, or Mars Valley. The landscape closely resembles the surface of Mars, and according to some sources, that was the original name. Due to a confusion between the Spanish words Marte and Muerte, the name was eventually changed to Valle de la Muerte.

Whatever the exact origin, the landscape certainly looks extremely dry, salty, and heavily eroded. The route takes you past jagged rock formations, dunes, salt crystals, and deep ravines, formed by years of wind and salt erosion.

We got out at the parking lot where people were sandboarding on the dunes. It looked cool, but also challenging. After each descent, you have to climb back up the loose sand with your board. We decided to just watch this time and then started our own climb to the viewpoint. In the end, it was more of a climb than we had expected, about 550 meters. Apart from the sections with loose sand, it was doable.

At the top, we were able to walk across a flat rock, with a view over the entire valley. At the end of the rock, the route descended again via a large sand dune. It was quite steep, so we decided to run down. That way, we were back down in less than fifteen minutes. The downside was that our shoes were completely filled with sand. Still, that was less annoying than the small stones we had picked up earlier after climbing Chachani.

At the parking lot, we emptied our shoes and then walked back along the road towards the park exit. We left the valley just in time for closing time. Valle del Muerte turned out to be a rugged and impressive landscape, and a nice active addition to the other highlights around San Pedro de Atacama.

In conclusion

In our opinion, San Pedro de Atacama is the perfect base from which to explore northern Chile. The variety of desert landscapes, lagoons, geysers, mountains, and small villages means that no two days feel the same. Precisely because many attractions are relatively close together, you can see a lot in a short time.

San Pedro de Atacama is also a logical starting point for a trip to Bolivia. From here, multi-day tours depart daily across the high plains to destinations such as the Eduardo Avaroa Desert and the Uyuni Salt Flat, the largest salt flat in the world. For us, this four-day tour was an intense but special follow-up to our week in the Atacama Desert. In a separate blog, we describe in detail how this tour works, what you can expect each day, and what you need to take into account.