Climbing the Chachani volcano (6,075 meters) near Arequipa: everything about the climb and our experience

The ascent of the Chachani volcano near Arequipa is often considered one of the most accessible 6,000-meter peaks in Peru. But make no mistake: altitude, cold, and weather conditions make this climb anything but easy. In this blog, we share our experience with you, including practical tips and our preparation.

How difficult is climbing the Chachani volcano (6,075 meters)?

Today, we had a challenge on the agenda that we would never have thought of taking on a few weeks ago: climbing the 6,075-meter-high Chachani volcano. The idea arose quite spontaneously after we read online that Chachani is known as one of the ‘easiest’ climbs above 6,000 meters. Not because it is easy, but because you start at an altitude of about 4,900 meters and therefore ‘only’ have to climb about 1,200 meters. In addition, it is not a technical climb: in the dry months, you don't need crampons, ropes, or other technical equipment.

What does make the climb difficult are two factors: the altitude and the cold. These are also the main reasons why only about 80% of climbers actually reach the summit. All in all, we came to the same conclusion: we are going to take on this challenge. Let's see what our bodies are capable of.

What to bring on the Chachani climb

Although climbing Chachani is not technically difficult, good preparation is essential. You start at night, at high altitude and in sub-zero temperatures. That's why warm and functional clothing is more important than technical climbing equipment. We wore multiple layers, including thermal clothing, a warm fleece, and a thick down jacket, topped with a windproof and waterproof outer layer. A warm hat and good gloves are also essential, as are sunglasses and sunscreen for when the sun rises.

Because the climb starts in the dark, a headlamp is indispensable. We also wore sturdy, broken-in hiking boots that are suitable for snow and loose terrain. Our small backpacks contained only water and quick-energy snacks, such as bars and nuts. We left everything we didn't need behind, because the lighter you walk, the easier the climb feels at this altitude.

Where can you book the Chachani climb?

We booked the Chachani climb with Quechua Explorer in Arequipa. They provided 4WD transport, an experienced guide, a comprehensive briefing beforehand, and breakfast during the climb. There are several providers in Arequipa that organize this climb.

Most organizations offer two options: a two-day climb with an overnight stay in a tent at an altitude of about 5,100 meters, or a one-day climb without an overnight stay. The two-day option gives your body a little more rest, but sleeping at this altitude is difficult and not ideal for everyone. The one-day option is more intense, but ensures that you descend as quickly as possible after reaching the summit.

Preparation and acclimatization

The day before the climb, we deliberately took it easy. In the afternoon, we attended the briefing organized by the organization. Here, we received a clear explanation of the route, the weather conditions, and the possible risks. Because we had already done a lot of hiking at altitude in the weeks before and our bodies were well acclimatized, we decided to do the climb in one day. Sleeping at an altitude of more than 5,000 meters is hard on the body, and the healthiest scenario is to descend as quickly as possible after reaching the summit.

The decision to do a one-day climb meant that we would be picked up at 12:30 a.m. It is about a three-hour drive from Arequipa to the starting point of the route. So that evening, we went to bed right after dinner, hoping to get a few hours of sleep.

The climb of Chachani: from night start to turning back below the summit

Our expedition to Chachani began at 12:30 a.m. A 4WD was waiting at the hotel to take us to the starting point. We had to wear all our clothes, because this would be the coldest point of the entire climb. The drive took about three hours and was bumpy, to say the least, but fortunately the car was suitable for this rough terrain.

Just before the starting point, it started to snow and the landscape slowly turned into a white world. Just before we reached the starting point, an alarm suddenly sounded from our phones, a weather warning: heavy clouds and snowfall were expected in the afternoon. Around 3:00 a.m., we started walking in the dark with our headlamps on. Our guide led the way and showed us the route. The first two kilometers to the base camp went surprisingly smoothly. The pace was slow, the altitude gain was gradual, and the occasional scrambling over rocks kept us warm.

Around 5 a.m., we arrived at the camp, which consisted of a large tent. Here we were given a small breakfast of tea with coca leaves and a sandwich with jam. When we went outside again fifteen minutes later, it had suddenly become light. From this point on, the climb became noticeably harder. The path became steeper and the air increasingly thin.

Our guide maintained a good pace and planned sufficient rest breaks. The general guideline is to climb about 200 meters per hour, so that your muscles stay warm and your body has time to adjust. The guide always told us how long it would be until the next break, which helped enormously mentally.

Although we were doing reasonably well physically, the weather was not cooperating that day. The guide heard from colleagues in Arequipa that dark clouds were moving toward the summit. He also noticed various signs that a storm was coming. All in all, he made a difficult but sensible decision: we would turn back.

Just 45 meters below the summit, at an altitude of about 6,030 meters, we took one last photo to celebrate that we had at least reached the 6,000-meter mark. It was disappointing to be so close, but safety always comes first. As a well-known saying among mountaineers goes: “Getting to the summit is optional, getting down is mandatory.”

The descent was surprisingly quick. Whereas it took us a total of seven hours to climb up, we were back down again after just three hours. We took a different route back, where the path consisted mainly of loose gravel. This allowed us to almost ‘ski’ down, although it did mean that our shoes were completely filled with stones. The weather remained bad, with hail, snow, and fog.

After stopping at the camp for some snacks and hot tea, we continued on our way to the car. By then, the heavy snow had stopped and the snow that had fallen earlier had melted a little. This allowed us to enjoy the view and we even encountered some animals.

Around 2 p.m., we were back at the car and the expedition was over. After another bumpy ride, we arrived back in Arequipa after about three hours.

Conclusion

Our climb of Chachani ultimately ended 45 meters below the summit, but we did reach an altitude of 6,030 meters. Something we never thought our bodies could handle beforehand. We have been hiking at altitude so much over the past few weeks, and it has clearly paid off.

We may not have reached the summit, but this day showed us how far you can go with a well-acclimatized body and the right mindset. Above all, we are grateful that we made it back down safely.